Because the yr attracts to a detailed, the staff behind AnOther Journal mirror on their favorite trend moments of the previous 12 months
Jordan Duddy, Junior Vogue Editor
“As an avid follower of Raf Simons’ work, the announcement that his eponymous label would shut was one in every of my main trend moments of the yr. His work has pushed the boundaries of menswear and had a far-reaching impression, culturally talking. At present his reveals from the late Nineteen Nineties and early 2000s are heralded as iconic menswear moments and are nonetheless extensively referenced. After 27 years, the model’s closure was huge trend information and a blow to followers. I used to be fortunate sufficient to see his ultimate present, a triumphant swansong that may go down within the trend historical past books.”
Ted Stansfield, Editorial Director, AnOthermag.com
“My high trend second of the yr was Bella Hadid having a gown sprayed onto her physique at Coperni, just because I’d by no means seen something prefer it earlier than. It jogged my memory of Shalom Harlow being equally sprayed, although by robots, at that McQueen present – for apparent causes. However the entire thing felt so new and progressive; I can’t even start to get my head across the know-how. And the gown truly seemed good! It made sense that it was on Bella who’s, to not sound all Wendy Williams, the second.”
Katie Shillingford, Vogue Director
“In September, it felt very particular to be out doing all of the reveals once more as a full staff, seeing all of the collections up shut and discussing and dissecting them afterwards. We particularly beloved seeing Loewe’s shiny crimson Minnie Mouse footwear up shut and had a quick encounter with Rei Kawakubo within the CDG showroom. We will do our jobs from afar, however it’s so far more significant once we expertise the collections in individual. So I’d say my greatest trend second of this season was being a staff collectively at trend weeks.”
Alexander Fury, Vogue Options Director
“As ever, it’s troublesome to condense a trend yr to a single second – particularly given how multi-faceted (or maybe fragmented) trend feels in the meanwhile. So I’ve three … or perhaps 5, if we break one in every of them aside. The connection between all of them, for me, is a hyperlink to historical past – not a common historical past, however my very own very specific reminiscences of trend. As a baby of the Nineteen Nineties, an apparent trend second for me was the long-awaited return of Linda Evangelista to the catwalk, courtesy of Kim Jones and Marc Jacobs at Fendi’s September present in New York. I am keen on many fashions – Shalom! Naomi! Kate! – however Linda has all the time been my favorite, from the Too Funky video [by George Michael] to her star flip in Isaac Mizrahi’s Autumn/Winter 1994 present, captured in Unzipped (Linda’s rant about lints and her epic side-eye is a staggering work of unparalleled genius). So to see her prowl in a Tiffany blue silk cape-coat, cracking that million-watt grin, took me proper again to why I fell in love with trend within the first place.
“One other hyperlink again was the trinity of reveals Antony Vaccarello staged for Saint Laurent: his menswear in July, and people February and September reveals in entrance of the Eiffel Tower, a venue now inextricably linked with Saint Laurent. And proudly owning a landmark like that may be a fuck-you energy transfer straight out of the Pierre Berge playbook. Keep in mind these YSL fragrance adverts for ‘Paris’ whirring across the tower’s apex? Once more, proper out of my childhood. Vaccarello’s two Saint Laurent womenswear reveals this season had been extraordinary for the ability of the ladies they depicted, alongside the power of the garments – wide-shouldered tailoring, slender hooded clothes, slipper-satin bias-cut night robes, and tiny particulars, just like the heft of a cuff, the décolletage of a silk shoe, or the right denier of sheer black tights. They spoke about class and class in a method we haven’t seen for years. Add to that the exceptional menswear present staged within the desert exterior of Marrakech – true Saint Laurent nation – and the gender-blurring élan of that assortment’s tailoring, the slip-streaming of items from menswear, to womenswear, and again once more, and this yr demonstrated Vaccarello’s virtuoso grasp on one of many trickiest legacies in trend historical past. It’s one near my coronary heart, and I am keen on what he’s doing.
“Love leads us to Valentino – and to my ultimate alternative, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s couture present staged on the Spanish Steps in Rome in July. It was an event the place I really feel not solely privileged to do what I do, however pause in a second of slight disbelief that I’m truly there witnessing it in any respect. If I ever get blasé or cynical about this job, moments like that knock it out of you want a suckerpunch. All through the course of this yr I had the enjoyment of working alongside Pierpaolo on the exhibition Eternally Valentino – and to see his thoughts and eye impressed by the archives we had been pawing by, with such affection and respect, was extremely emotional. This wasn’t an homage to Mr Valentino’s work, however it appeared a love-letter to his life, his adoration of ladies and of magnificence, which was right here all of the extra exceptional as a result of, slightly than a static reflection, it was an evolution, a development. It vibrated with emotion, in each sew – the emotion of the founder, of its new creator, and of the seamstresses who sewed all of it collectively. In brief, it completely blew me away. And that’s all the time my measure of nice trend. Fortunately, it nonetheless occurs a lot.”
Dominique Sisley, Senior Editor, AnOthermag.com
“‘Isn’t it the case that with every new outfit, Rihanna erects a monument, sends out a flare and lights up group texts?’ These phrases, from Durga Chew Bose’s Dazed cowl story in September 2021, would show to be notably pertinent only a few months later. The singer’s being pregnant announcement felt like the primary huge trend second of 2022: a dramatic thunderbolt of glowing metals and electrical pink, breaking apart the gray monotony of January. The references felt biblical, with Rihanna strolling alongside the overcast streets of Paris like a modern-day Virgin Madonna – her hair tousled, her expression serene, and her bump adorned with opulent classic jewels from Dior and LaCroix. And to complete it off with a straightforward Autumn/Winter 1996 Chanel puffer and a few ripped denims? Reward be to God, the flare was lit.”
Ellie Grace Cumming, Vogue Director
“My favorite trend second of 2022 was engaged on (styling) the Dior Males’s Fall present in December in Cairo. It was an unimaginable expertise with a forged of 75 fashions celebrating 75 years of Dior, with a set of the Nice Pyramids of Giza, a soundtrack scored by Jeff Mills, and probably the most stunning assortment designed by Kim Jones. It was a dream to be a part of – not many trend moments occur on one of many seven wonders of the world! After the present finale had completed, Max Richter performed his sensible The 4 Seasons with a reside orchestra and a laser mild present; there have been many tears, it was a legendary second.”
Sophie Bew, Editor
“John Galliano’s Cinema Inferno – a theatre-production-cum-film-cum-runway-show for Maison Margiela Artisanal Autumn/Winter 2022 in July, earlier this yr – was a feat of genre-blurring magnificence. The Andrew Wyeth panorama, the campy performing, the ruby slippers, latex caps and foam cowboy hats provided a technicolour feast to ceremony-starved viewers. The couture volumes, humongous again bows, plumed veiled masks and surgical scrubs: it was delectable and a bit bonkers. A welcome reminder that there’s nonetheless a lot new floor for trend to interrupt.”
George Pistachio, Social Media Editor, AnOthermag.com
“I really feel as if the period of the film star is returning. This yr has introduced such nice cinema – each arthouse and mainstream – and the awards ceremonies have felt extra buzzy than ever. So when Nicole Kidman arrived on the catwalk for Balenciaga’s 51st couture present, trying red-carpet-ready as ever, it simply appeared to make sense. From Moulin Rouge to The Portrait of a Girl, Kidman and her taut brow are fully unforgettable, and now her seductive swaggering by Balenciaga’s Parisian salon is now ingrained in my reminiscence.”
Rebecca Perlmutar, Vogue Editor
“Nothing will high my first Junya Watanabe present throughout Paris Vogue Week. Beginning off what our staff has dubbed ‘Comme Day’ – the Saturday of trend week when Junya Watanabe, Noir Kei Ninomiya and Comme des Garçons all present (aka the most effective day) – this specific Junya present left me feeling exceptionally fortunate that I get to do what I do. The present was a nod to the youth of London’s Nineteen Eighties New Romantic subculture, and from the primary beat of Duran Duran’s Ladies on Movie, when two fashions walked out concurrently at simply the precise second, you had been taken there. To expertise it in individual was simply so good.”
Violet Conroy, Options Editor, AnOthermag.com
“Possibly it’s a cop-out to decide on a movie, however my favorite trend second of the yr was in Joanna Hogg’s The Memento Half II. Within the earlier saga, The Memento – which follows a younger movie pupil in Nineteen Eighties London who falls in love for the primary time whereas concurrently grappling to seek out her inventive voice – the protagonist Julie (performed by Honor Swinton Byrne) is naive in frumpy pink cardigans, ill-fitting shirts and pumps; an inescapable maker of her higher center class, conventional upbringing within the British countryside.
“Within the second movie, after experiencing alternating tides of affection and grief, Julie emerges as a classy and confident younger artist in Vivienne Westwood, boxy Yohji Yamamoto fits and one high-powered occasion look – slicked again hair and a one-shouldered black minidress – that appear to channel her burgeoning sense of sexuality. Each movies are autobiographical nearly to the bone, with Hogg lending lots of her personal previous garments on display screen; The Memento Half II is a reminder that the garments we put on inform a unconscious story about who we’re (flaws and all), evolving and maturing in tandem with age and confidence.”
